Meet Desoire the designer removing labels.
Contributed by Benedetta Mancusi to issue one of The Grey.
Neha Sikder is a 17-year-old fashion designer from Texas. A young entrepreneur with a disruptive vision, she launched Desoire at 14 to challenge the fashion industry’s rigid gender norms. Identifying a problem, she created a solution. Inspired by her Indian heritage and how her ancestors transcended conventional femininity, Sikder reinterprets femininity, moving beyond stereotypes. “This perspective shapes my approach with Desoire and my life – embracing a world beyond labels.”
What initially sparked your passion for genderless fashion, and specifically focusing on normalising femininity for all genders? One night, while listening to a podcast, I heard the term “genderless fashion” for the first time. Intrigued, I began researching it and discovered how misinterpreted it was. The notion that fashion is tied to gender identity was limiting people’s ability to experiment with their style, specifically for femininity. It baffled me how almost no companies were actively addressing this issue. This realisation opened my eyes to how I could make a difference in this space.
What’s your main goal with Desoire? I want people to understand that fashion has nothing to do with our gender identity. I’ve always believed that those brave enough to live beyond labels are the ones who change the world. Forget what gender a specific garment is designed for – if you like something – embrace it. Specifically for men, don’t let toxic masculinity keep you from expressing yourself.
Can you walk me through your design process? Where do you find inspiration for your pieces? I usually look at a few fashion shows from designers I admire, anywhere from Harris Reed to Versace, and I try to analyse particular cuts that call out to me. From there I start brainstorming designs with similar or blended concepts of styles that stick with me. After a few rounds of sketching and compiling a vision board, I send the sketches to a pattern maker. They use a digital software to create digital patterns of the garment. These patterns are then sent to my manufacturing house, where we refine the sizing and fit.
What practices do you implement to ensure sustainability throughout the design, production and distribution phases? The key to sustainability is transparency. Throughout our process, ensuring sustainability requires communication with each person we work with. On the production side, we focus on conserving fabric and minimising waste at every stage, from sample making to actual production. We produce in lower quantities to avoid overproduction. Sourcing sustainable fabric, for us, means fully understanding a garment’s composition and its environmental impact. Additionally, we opt for organic, biodegradable, or tree-based primary fibres. With packaging and distribution, all our clothes are delivered in 100% recycled low-density plastics. We believe in making decisions that minimise waste, choosing manufacturing partners and selecting fabrics that align with our goals.
What are some of the biggest challenges and opportunities you see in the current fashion landscape for a brand like Desoire? One of the biggest challenges for Desoire is overcoming the stigma associated with dressing beyond gender. The concept of men wearing feminine garments can be perceived as radical, and many people might find it difficult to support. To address this, we need to take gradual steps to help consumers step out of their comfort zones and embrace our vision. However, this challenge also presents an opportunity: those who have already embraced a non-traditional approach to fashion are highly invested in what we do.
Where do you see your brand evolving in the coming years? In the coming years, I envision Desoire taking on the global stage of fashion. Our goal is to lead a legacy of redefining self-expression and inspire others to join this crucial movement of de-gendering fashion. By continuing to challenge traditional norms and pushing boundaries, it’s my mission to make fashion experimental and inclusive for the everyday consumer. We hope that our work will not only influence individuals but also encourage other brands to embrace and promote gender-free fashion, making this long-overdue mission a mainstream reality.
What change(s) would you like to see in the world of fashion? This is an era of change. This is the generation where we fight against strict labels. For the fashion industry, it’s time to listen to our consumers and connect with people from all backgrounds. The future of fashion lies in collective empowerment, which is possible only through inclusivity and transparency. Now is the moment for human connection, and I’m excited to witness the transformative changes that lie ahead in the world of fashion.