Fashion 101: Theories of Taste
POV: You’re about to understand why trends happen…
It’s a questions that plagued me for years - how do trends happen, how do we collectively just decide that we all like one thing now. How do we all agree that it’s time to wear something different? to go one step further, how do we even define taste, and she sets it?
Well, it’s not random, and theorists throughout time have conceptualised different ways that taste might be defined. So get ready to discover the (euro-centric) key theories of taste that you are taught in year 1 of fashion school.
Trickle-Down Theory (Veblen, 1899)
Rich people set trends, and everyone else copies. Historically throughout Europe this would refer to royal courts with the monarchy and their court setting trends, and even enforcing sumptuary laws to try and prevent ‘commoners’ from replicating their lavish style. For the modern day, think Chanel bags—luxury starts exclusive, or amongst celebrities, then fast fashion picks it up and it trickles down to the rest of us.
Bubble-Up Theory (Gans, 1974)
Trends start in subcultures and move up. Coined in the 70s this theory applies to more modern trends, in the 60s the UK saw the ‘Youthquake’ with young people on Carnaby Street and throughout Londons underground scene breaking the boundaries of the trends of their parents generation. Purposefully shortening hems, brightening colours and breaking the rules to make a stand for something. In trend cycles since then underground subcultures have frequently been the ones to try something new and set a new style into motion.
A more modern example - streetwear, used to be underground and linked to specific subcultures, now every luxury house has done a streetwear collab and every celebrity and influencer wears tracksuits and trainers in their day to day.
Hypodermic Needle Theory (1920s-30s)
In short: the idea that media injects ideas straight into us. So whatever powers that be behind magazines, TV and other news publications basically decided what trends it wants to sell to us next, and we follow. On a really large scale think propaganda and viral attitudes rising up from social media. In a fashion setting, think 00s publications promoting ‘heroin chic’ body image ideals or switching to curvy BBL body ideals in the 2010s-20s.
Honestly those three are the big ones. But there are three other more modern, and less defined theories that it’s worth keeping in mind.
wo-Step Flow Theory (Lazarsfeld & Katz, 1950s)
Media doesn’t influence us directly—instead, ideas flow through key people first. Opinion leaders (like influencers, critics, or trendsetters) shape what we think is cool before the general public catches on. Think of how a niche fashion blogger hypes a new sneaker before it blows up everywhere!
Distinction Theory (Bourdieu, 1979)
Your taste = your social class. Some flex with fine art, others with niche music. It’s all about signaling status, and thats why we like what we like.
Omnivore Theory (Peterson, 1990s)
Today, high-status people mix “high” and “low” culture—think a CEO who loves fine wine and Beyoncé.
Personally, I don’t know that any one definition is 100% accurate, I think fashion is such a complex part of being human and we all as individuals take some my influence and reference from a million sources at once. Style and the way we idolise it is changing, with Gen Z rapidly changing the game through things like micro-trends, and increased thoughtfulness about their clothing (ie. sustainability or politics) .
However when I am working (my day job is as a brand strategist) I often have to think ahead to understand future audience needs, potential future fashion trends and predict social media trends too. These theories give me direction to look at different sources to see where various new trends might be brewing.
So, which theory explains your taste?